Lawn Care Advice Thread

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I'm essentially a year into bringing back our lawn that was neglected prior to our moving in 4 years ago and spending the first three years working on other land/hardscape projects where the yard was getting tore up in between. I've had some minimal progress this past year, but any progress is good.

My plan for this coming week on my 1/4 acre lawn that is mostly a 30 degree slope for 2/3rds of that plot:

- Mow to 1.5 inches using the walk behind (21" ) to get most of the grass in the "dips" versus the 48" riding mower JD
- Bag clippings with the John Deere
- Dethatch using the tow behind AgriFab 40" detacher with the JD to bring up any old clippings/ etc
- Bag any debris with the JD
- Aerate using the tow behind AgriFab 48" plug aerator with the JD
- Add some top soil to the major low spots to help level the "dips"
- Overseed with Black Beauty Ultra ( Jonathan Green brand)
- Add Scott's starter fertilizer
- Lay out some straw in heavily sloped or bare areas
- Set several zoned sprinklers to add water for 10 minutes, 3 times a day for the first week or so
- Mow with walk behind for first few cuts at least 3 weeks after seeding. May take a weed eater to any crab grass in between as needed.


Eventually want to get to mostly organic fertilizers (Milo), but I have a current stockpile of Scott's to get through that will hopefully also help in getting the yard into a condition without as much chemicals for weeds.I


Edit: I hate autocorrect on my kindle!
 
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just do what I do...hire a couple of messicans and let the situation work itself out.
 
my issue is weeds around the pool i pull them up constantly

wife won't let me use round up cancer en sech

so looking for a good organic one.
 
Is it better to not bag the grass or bag the grass before you fertilize the lawn?

I know it's better to not bag normally, but right before fertilizing not sure?
 
I'm essentially a year into bringing back our lawn that was neglected prior to our moving in 4 years ago and spending the first three years working on other land/hardscape projects where the yard was getting tore up in between. I've had some minimal progress this past year, but any progress is good.

My plan for this coming week on my 1/4 acre lawn that is mostly a 30 degree slope for 2/3rds of that plot:

- Mow to 1.5 inches using the walk behind (21" ) to get most of the grass in the "dips" versus the 48" riding mower JD
- Bag clippings with the John Deere
- Dethatch using the tow behind AgriFab 40" detacher with the JD to bring up any old clippings/ etc
- Bag any debris with the JD
- Aerate using the tow behind AgriFab 48" plug aerator with the JD
- Add some top soil to the major low spots to help level the "dips"
- Overseed with Black Beauty Ultra ( Jonathan Green brand)
- Add Scott's starter fertilizer
- Lay out some straw in heavily sloped or bare areas
- Set several zoned sprinklers to add water for 10 minutes, 3 times a day for the first week or so
- Mow with walk behind for first few cuts at least 3 weeks after seeding. May take a weed eater to any crab grass in between as needed.


Eventually want to get to mostly organic fertilizers (Milo), but I have a current stockpile of Scott's to get through that will hopefully also help in getting the yard into a condition without as much chemicals for weeds.I


Edit: I hate autocorrect on my kindle!
Mulch don’t bag. You’re robbing the yard of some great nutrients.
 
I'm essentially a year into bringing back our lawn that was neglected prior to our moving in 4 years ago and spending the first three years working on other land/hardscape projects where the yard was getting tore up in between. I've had some minimal progress this past year, but any progress is good.

My plan for this coming week on my 1/4 acre lawn that is mostly a 30 degree slope for 2/3rds of that plot:

- Mow to 1.5 inches using the walk behind (21" ) to get most of the grass in the "dips" versus the 48" riding mower JD
- Bag clippings with the John Deere
- Dethatch using the tow behind AgriFab 40" detacher with the JD to bring up any old clippings/ etc
- Bag any debris with the JD
- Aerate using the tow behind AgriFab 48" plug aerator with the JD
- Add some top soil to the major low spots to help level the "dips"
- Overseed with Black Beauty Ultra ( Jonathan Green brand)
- Add Scott's starter fertilizer
- Lay out some straw in heavily sloped or bare areas
- Set several zoned sprinklers to add water for 10 minutes, 3 times a day for the first week or so
- Mow with walk behind for first few cuts at least 3 weeks after seeding. May take a weed eater to any crab grass in between as needed.


Eventually want to get to mostly organic fertilizers (Milo), but I have a current stockpile of Scott's to get through that will hopefully also help in getting the yard into a condition without as much chemicals for weeds.I


Edit: I hate autocorrect on my kindle!
1.5 inch cut is way too short, you're gonna burn the shit out of what's left.

I would cut to 2.5" and leave the clippings at this time of the year.

Everything else seems as though you're on the right track although some friends have told me that laying out straw or hay can promote weed growth. That might be something you'll have to live with considering the slope and the need to control erosion.

Good luck, I'm in the process of reclaiming about 2,000 sq' of my yard as well. New loam is down and was seeded on Saturday. Basically a flat yard so I just have to keep it watered and I should be in good shape.
 
my issue is weeds around the pool i pull them up constantly

wife won't let me use round up cancer en sech

so looking for a good organic one.

look into a weed torch. Since it's a specific area and not an entire lawn, that may be an effective treatment.
 
Is it better to not bag the grass or bag the grass before you fertilize the lawn?

I know it's better to not bag normally, but right before fertilizing not sure?
Only reason I'm bagging now is because I'm looking for the best soil contact for seeding. I mulch throughout the rest of the year.
 
Mulch don’t bag. You’re robbing the yard of some great nutrients.
I do normally, but will bag as much debris as possible now for better soil contact with reseeding.
 
1.5 inch cut is way too short, you're gonna burn the shit out of what's left.

I would cut to 2.5" and leave the clippings at this time of the year.

Everything else seems as though you're on the right track although some friends have told me that laying out straw or hay can promote weed growth. That might be something you'll have to live with considering the slope and the need to control erosion.

Good luck, I'm in the process of reclaiming about 2,000 sq' of my yard as well. New loam is down and was seeded on Saturday. Basically a flat yard so I just have to keep it watered and I should be in good shape.
I'm currently at 2" on my last cut, going down a half inch over the last few cuts in preparation for seeding. I may keep it at 2" for my next cut versus 1 .5", but with good weather coming around for tall fescue, I actually want some of the good grass right now to be a little delayed in regrowth to allow sunlight to get to the new seed. The crowns won't be affected at 1.5 or 2, but may leave it at 2 now.
 
Only reason I'm bagging now is because I'm looking for the best soil contact for seeding. I mulch throughout the rest of the year.

Do you live in snow country? Winter seed in Late Feb early March when snow is still on the ground. It gives the new grass a chance to establish before traffic and mowing in later spring.
 
Do you live in snow country? Winter seed in Late Feb early March when snow is still on the ground. It gives the new grass a chance to establish before traffic and mowing in later spring.
Virginia, so I'm in the transition zone with mostly tall fescue. Spring seeding doesn't work, as there's not enough time to establish a root reserve before the summer heat. Fall seeding provides enough time to establish before winter dormancy, then the spring to continue root growth to withstand the summer.
 
Look in to using beer fertilizer. You can reuse your bad batches to make your lawn look nice.
 
Look in to using beer fertilizer. You can reuse your bad batches to make your lawn look nice.
Bad batches? Never had that experience.

Do add water from cleaning the fish tank to our roses as a fertilizer, but I have yet to make a bad batch of beer.
 
Bad batches? Never had that experience.

Do add water from cleaning the fish tank to our roses as a fertilizer, but I have yet to make a bad batch of beer.
Then you are more skilled than myself. I've had several get infections and ferment with something unintended.
 
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