Lawn Equipment and maintenance

I can't tell you how much better this Honda lawn mower is with the RPM increase.
Have mowed several times now with some tall grass, and it just powers thru it, no problem. It would bog down some before.

Highly recommend.
Just watch that video.
 
While researching everything, I found out that Honda has moved to a bigger engine on the model I got 3 years ago.
It went from 190cc to 200cc.

Pissed me off a little.
Fuckers
 
While researching everything, I found out that Honda has moved to a bigger engine on the model I got 3 years ago.
It went from 190cc to 200cc.

Pissed me off a little.
Fuckers
Something like that was probably done with a different head. Not a lot of cc's increased :)
 
It makes me want to bore and stroke my engine.
haha, yeah I've been there. Lots of work to get just a little more power, especially just for a mower. Now if it were a racing kart...let's do it.
 
I don't know what it is when it comes to the rear drive wheels on these Honda mowers, but I had to replace them.
I know I'm hard on them but fuck that shit.

Not that the rubber was worn down to nothing or anything, but rather the rubber separated from the plastic wheel.

It's strange and I've replaced a few sets over the years.

2 Drive Wheels at Lowes = $40
 
I've had a McLane walk behind edger for a lot of years.
It's starting to stumble, not wanting to start, runs good for awhile, then wants to chug chug and stall, or sometimes keep going.

Never have rebuilt a carburetor, so I'm wondering how intricate this shit is.
I think it could be a number of things, but a rebuild kit should get it all.
Maybe a fuel pump diaphragm, maybe fuel metering, just don't know

Like this:

View attachment 27990



These rebuild kits are vague in their description, such as "will fit Briggs & Stratton 3-5 horsepower" etc., and since I have never done one, am uncertain if I want to take this thing all apart then discover I have the wrong kit.

@fordman84
I think you said you had some experience with these things??
Is it easy or not. Should I just jump into it or have it done. Right now it would probably take all summer to get it back from the repair shop.


Anybody have this problem.
Not sure if anyone's brought this up, but it's a common issue with any garden equipment, snow blowers, etc.

Drop the bolt out of the bottom of the carburetor bowl (typically 1/2" socket).
No need to drop the entire bowl. The gasket will typically hold it in place and you don't want to tear it and have to replace it too.

There will be a small pin-hole in the side of that bolt holding the carb bowl in place. That hole gets clogged and causes your problem of starting for a bit then dying.

I typically soak it overnight in Liquid Wrench or any kind of carb cleaner fluid for that matter. A shot glass works.
If you can, see if you can also get a small wire into the hole to give it a good ream. A metal brush bristle works.

It's never failed me on those symptoms.
 
Not sure if anyone's brought this up, but it's a common issue with any garden equipment, snow blowers, etc.

Drop the bolt out of the bottom of the carburetor bowl (typically 1/2" socket).
No need to drop the entire bowl. The gasket will typically hold it in place and you don't want to tear it and have to replace it too.

There will be a small pin-hole in the side of that bolt holding the carb bowl in place. That hole gets clogged and causes your problem of starting for a bit then dying.

I typically soak it overnight in Liquid Wrench or any kind of carb cleaner fluid for that matter. A shot glass works.
If you can, see if you can also get a small wire into the hole to give it a good ream. A metal brush bristle works.

It's never failed me on those symptoms.
Yup, if you need a faster "crap need to mow/edge/whatever" today and it is a bowl type carb, just drop that screw out and pull the bowl. hit both with some spray carb cleaner. Chances are there is some junk in the bowl and maybe clogging the jet-screw. Then use the straw to shoot cleaner up through the throat of the carb (the metal tube that you see sticking down when the bowl is off.

Only thing you can mess up is if the o-ring slips off, easy fix to set it back. Or not putting the bowl back on right. Some have a bowl that is stepped down, one side is flatter than the other. The "thinnest" section goes directly under the float pin. If you get it wrong the float sometimes can't drop all the way down and your engine will keep dying after a few minutes since it can't fill the bowl enough.


edit: Here is a picture of the type of bowl I mean. That flat part has to go under the float hinge, so the float has room to droop all the way down and fill the bowl.

1629988005976.png
 
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