Refinishing/Installing Wood Floors ???

outofyourmind

outofyourmind

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Wife wants to pull the carpet in the living room and hallway and want's wood floors.

House came originally with wood floors, but when I remodeled it I noticed that the wood floors were in bad shape.

So, it's.....
1. Refurbish what's there. Need to lace in 2 old floor furnaces, lots of nail/staple holes, some old termite damage. This house is 70 years old, so I'm not looking for perfection. Plus, when I did the remodel 10 years ago, knowing I was going with carpet I didn't use any drop cloths, so plenty of joint compound and some paint splatter. I think this is the cheapest way to go.

2. Install a floating floor system over the original hardwood. Getting some feedback about some older installations, and people are starting to have some problems 10-12 years later, so not really sold on this idea.

3. Install all new hardwood over the old hardwood. Nailed down. This seems to be the most expensive.



Only have 400 square feet to do.

If you have done this, what have you run into with the install ???
 
We put in wood floors two years ago. I hate carpeting.
 
I see a lot of refinished hardwoods in older homes.... People like the character of the imperfections like nail holes, cracks & knots. So, if perfection is not needed then refinish what you have.

If you decide to lay fresh hardwood on top of the existing, remember the new nail down hardwood is 3/4" thick & could pose problems around doors & baseboards
 
I recently did option 2 in what was to be my office and ended up being my workout room. Took way longer than I expected to do the install, but I'm pretty happy with the results, although I was doing it on a subfloor so the prep work and leveling was minimal.
 
The joint compound and paint splatter are non-issues ... both will come up easily. Around here, industrial sanders will rent for about $200/day and the sanding pads are about $20 each. Check and see if you can rent for a half day on Saturday and you will get it for free Sunday. You will need at least two different grits but I would plan on three. Then you are going to need a hand sander for the edges/corners. Poly is easy to apply correctly, just be sure to feather out when you lift the brush. All and all, you could probably refinish what you have for about $350 and a day and half of labor.
 
outofyourmind said:
Wife wants to pull the carpet in the living room and hallway and want's wood floors.

House came originally with wood floors, but when I remodeled it I noticed that the wood floors were in bad shape.

So, it's.....
1. Refurbish what's there. Need to lace in 2 old floor furnaces, lots of nail/staple holes, some old termite damage. This house is 70 years old, so I'm not looking for perfection. Plus, when I did the remodel 10 years ago, knowing I was going with carpet I didn't use any drop cloths, so plenty of joint compound and some paint splatter. I think this is the cheapest way to go.

2. Install a floating floor system over the original hardwood. Getting some feedback about some older installations, and people are starting to have some problems 10-12 years later, so not really sold on this idea.

3. Install all new hardwood over the old hardwood. Nailed down. This seems to be the most expensive.



Only have 400 square feet to do.

If you have done this, what have you run into with the install ???
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If the wood is rough underneath you could lean into it, and go with an antique rough look. My FIL had wood floors in his cabin, and we went through and beat the shit out of with chains and hammers, dark stain, and it looks fucking awesome. Wish I ha d pictures.
 
outofyourmind said:
It will have a rough look to it for sue, but that's ok for what I'm doing.
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Sand off all the non-wood splatters. If lay chain on the floor and beat it with a hammer/mallet, and also take a 2x4 with some nails driven through it, and then bent, and pound on that randomly. Stain, and leave the stain heavier in the dimples you create.
 
BTW, may I suggest that you buy something like this, no matter which decision you make:
1640795029055.png
These cost about $50 but you can get a pair for $25 at your local Harbor Freight and will be some of the best money you spend.
 
batchaps4me said:
BTW, may I suggest that you buy something like this, no matter which decision you make:
View attachment 54466
These cost about $50 but you can get a pair for $25 at your local Harbor Freight and will be some of the best money you spend.
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That is kinda hard to see, but looks like knee pads.
Have those already from when I had some tile work to do.
 
If the original floor is Red Oak, which I'm pretty sure it is, then the replacement boards will be Red Oak.
If that's the case, I'll probably forego stain and just use Linseed Oil. I've used it before, it's just a bitch to use and keep moving.

1640795276457.png
 
outofyourmind said:
That is kinda hard to see, but looks like knee pads.
Have those already from when I had some tile work to do.
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Knee pads with rollers. If you are putting down any type of flooring, they are a Godsend and sooooo much better than regular kneepads. The job will go faster and easier on you. BTW, why go linseed oil instead of Polly? Just asking because I have never used the oil.
 
batchaps4me said:
why go linseed oil instead of Polly? Just asking because I have never used the oil.
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The poly has too much shine for me.
And as they will be old, antiquy floors anyway.
Linseed is physically tough, but easy and quick and can't really fuck it up unless you let it dry and you aren't done.
 
outofyourmind said:
The poly has too much shine for me.
And as they will be old, antiquy floors anyway.
Linseed is physically tough, but easy and quick and can't really fuck it up unless you let it dry and you aren't done.
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Do you prep the wood the same for either stain or linseed oil?
 
outofyourmind said:
The poly has too much shine for me.
And as they will be old, antiquy floors anyway.
Linseed is physically tough, but easy and quick and can't really fuck it up unless you let it dry and you aren't done.
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They make satin or matte finishes, in materials that are easier to use. Never liked linseed oil, and it will need to be redone periodically
 
Peter Gozintite said:
They make satin or matte finishes, in materials that are easier to use. Never liked linseed oil, and it will need to be redone periodically
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Good to know, and I think they come in water based too.

Do you not like linseed oil because of they way it looks, or they it's applied.
 
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