Anyone ever install a Cleanout on their sewer line ???

outofyourmind

outofyourmind

Joined
Aug 17, 2020
Posts
30,587
Reaction score
57,801
Bookie:
$ 23,000.00
Location
Oklahoma City
2 months ago I had to put a Cleanout in one of my sewer lines. This addition to my house was put on in 1968 and had Orangeburg sewer line.
Long story short, no problems putting it in, with some Fernco's and pvc connecting the cast iron from the house to the Orangeburg. So far so good, have not needed it yet.

Fast forward to today.
My mothers house was built in the early 1950's like mine. She calls and her bathroom is backed up.
Had the rooter guy out 2 years ago and cleared the line, and had him back out today.

All cleared up. But he had to dig a hole down to the sewer line, and break it open just to get to it. It never had a cleanout, but it's time to put one in. and.......
Yep, It's cement.

Here's the question for anyone that has run across this.....

How did you cut a section of this out, being cement?
What diameter was it?
What kind of rubber sleeve (Fernco) did you use, (size etc), or did you use something different.


So, after doing this to mine, I'm going to put one in for her, unless one of you guys has a warning not to.
I would like to have a better idea of what I'm going to be looking at before I dig it all up.
 
I dug all mine up and replaced it with pvc but I know that's not what you want to hear.
 
I have never run into this before, but I take a shit everyday, and mine makes it to the city sewage lines. Hope that helps.
 
At least you are not having to deal with cast iron pipes with leaded joints ... I would like to say that if you are thinking long term, you may want to look into replacing all of the Orangeburg pipes. The ones in your and your mom's house are nearing the end of their lifespan(50ish years IIRC). Having Roto Rooter service the line twice in two years may be an indicator of larger looming problems. Of course it is quite possible/probable that you can install a cleanout and get decades more service from the line but it is something to evaluate before it becomes an emergency.
 
Since the top of the pipe is already broken out, I think I'm just going to go with a cleanout saddle tee/slip tee and call it good.
If we need to rooter it again, at least it will be easy.

I'll give updates, and I'm sure it won't be straight forward or anything.
 
outofyourmind said:
Since the top of the pipe is already broken out, I think I'm just going to go with a cleanout saddle tee/slip tee and call it good.
If we need to rooter it again, at least it will be easy.

I'll give updates, and I'm sure it won't be straight forward or anything.
Click to expand...
PICTURES!!!!!
 
batchaps4me said:
I would like to say that if you are thinking long term, you may want to look into replacing all of the Orangeburg pipes.
Click to expand...

OK
My Orangeburg line is collapsing. Having my rooter guy out every 2-3 months; it's just a matter of time before it won't work at all.

So I dug a trench in my backyard to locate the original sewer line to the house; the one that the Orangeburg is connected to, but it's further down the line from where I'm digging. The plan is to just bypass the Orangeburg all together.

I eventually find it. The trench is 2 feet wide and 7 feet long and 3 1/2 feet deep when I do. The plan was to find this line first, to see if I can do this at all; I can. It looks like I dug a grave and told my wife "this is her chance". lol

Luckily it's a concrete line and in perfect shape and not that fucking Orangeburg. Ok, now I'm good to go.
Have to dig a trench for the new line, about 40 feet long; it comes out of the house about a foot underground, and I have to slope it down 2 degrees to the exposed concrete line.

Ordered a Fernco sewer pipe flexible saddle for the concrete line and will be here in a couple of days.
I'll take the angle grinder and cut the hole in the line, using some water to keep the dust down because this line might have some asbestos in it, and then install the saddle.

Because of the tree roots I have in my yard, this trench might take some time to dig.

Glue up some 4" PVC and BOOM, it'll be done.
I hope.
 
outofyourmind said:
OK
My Orangeburg line is collapsing. Having my rooter guy out every 2-3 months; it's just a matter of time before it won't work at all.

So I dug a trench in my backyard to locate the original sewer line to the house; the one that the Orangeburg is connected to, but it's further down the line from where I'm digging. The plan is to just bypass the Orangeburg all together.

I eventually find it. The trench is 2 feet wide and 7 feet long and 3 1/2 feet deep when I do. The plan was to find this line first, to see if I can do this at all; I can. It looks like I dug a grave and told my wife "this is her chance". lol

Luckily it's a concrete line and in perfect shape and not that fucking Orangeburg. Ok, now I'm good to go.
Have to dig a trench for the new line, about 40 feet long; it comes out of the house about a foot underground, and I have to slope it down 2 degrees to the exposed concrete line.

Ordered a Fernco sewer pipe flexible saddle for the concrete line and will be here in a couple of days.
I'll take the angle grinder and cut the hole in the line, using some water to keep the dust down because this line might have some asbestos in it, and then install the saddle.

Because of the tree roots I have in my yard, this trench might take some time to dig.

Glue up some 4" PVC and BOOM, it'll be done.
I hope.
Click to expand...
Since you have some skills, there are three things you need to remember and you can call yourself a plumber:
1. Shit flows downhill
2. The boss is an asshole
3. Payday is on Friday
 
Oh, and all for under $200 too.

Jimmy Fallon Reaction GIF by The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon
 
Just took the first pass on the trench, soft dirt no issues. Just one shovel blade deep. I know I'll have to dig around/under some sprinkler lines, and there's a gas line in there somewhere, but probably deep enough I'll never see it. I'll be crossing the old Orangeburg line, unless it dives down deeper than I'm going. Murphy's Law says it will be exactly in my way.
 
outofyourmind said:
Just took the first pass on the trench, soft dirt no issues. Just one shovel blade deep. I know I'll have to dig around/under some sprinkler lines, and there's a gas line in there somewhere, but probably deep enough I'll never see it. I'll be crossing the old Orangeburg line, unless it dives down deeper than I'm going. Murphy's Law says it will be exactly in my way.
Click to expand...
Good luck brother. Did you say you were going to install a clean out extension too?

I know they make check valves for residential sewage systems, that only allow waste to go one direction. might be trouble than its worth.

Also on the drain pipe slope, you said 2% grade, and I have no idea how that transfers to actual slope, and it should be 1/4" slope per foot of drain pipe. so 1 inch in four feet. Is that the same ratio?
 
Peter Gozintite said:
Good luck brother. Did you say you were going to install a clean out extension too?

I know they make check valves for residential sewage systems, that only allow waste to go one direction. might be trouble than its worth.

Also on the drain pipe slope, you said 2% grade, and I have no idea how that transfers to actual slope, and it should be 1/4" slope per foot of drain pipe. so 1 inch in four feet. Is that the same ratio?
Click to expand...
The 2 degree slope = 1 foot in a 50 foot run.
But my yard slopes down, so right now it's dropping about 3 feet in a 40 foot run.
My new run will be a little more than the 1/4" per foot, but should be ok.

Fuck the check valve. I don't really have the room for it and don't care to dig the extra dirt out of the hole. I anticipate not ever having a clog again with this PVC run
Already put the cleanout in a few months ago.
 
outofyourmind said:
The 2 degree slope = 1 foot in a 50 foot run.
But my yard slopes down, so right now it's dropping about 3 feet in a 40 foot run.
My new run will be a little more than the 1/4" per foot, but should be ok.

Fuck the check valve. I don't really have the room for it and don't care to dig the extra dirt out of the hole. I anticipate not ever having a clog again with this PVC run
Already put the cleanout in a few months ago.
Click to expand...
Not many problems worse than an unreliable sewage line.
 
batchaps4me said:
Since you have some skills, there are three things you need to remember and you can call yourself a plumber:
1. Shit flows downhill
2. The boss is an asshole
3. Payday is on Friday
4. Don't chew your fingernails
Click to expand...

fify
 
Have you looked into getting your current pipe CIPP'd?
 
Is your problem tree roots?

I'm on septic and have a vertical clean out just prior to the tank access (horizontal/vertical transition) that they use for pumping it out every 3 years or so.

There is also an opening plug to plunge the horizontal trunk line from the basement.

About 10 years ago I was having periodic (every 3 months or so) problems with clogs to the septic. I thought maybe the laterals had gone bad and the tank wasn't draining properly. The guy who came out to pump it told me the tank was healthy and my problem was likely small tree roots at the vertical clean out/horizontal trunk line transition catching toilet paper. He suggested that once every couple years I treat the system with RootX. That it would kill the roots (not the tree), make them brittle and they'd break off. I use it every couple years and haven't had a clog since.

Of course the plumber I had out a few times at $400 a pop to clear the clogs never so much as hinted about a root issue.

You can't buy RootX at your typical home improvement store. You have to get it at a specialty plumbing supply place. There is only one place in Omaha I can get it. It can be ordered online.

You just flush the entire container down the toilet and it foams up in your trunk line.

My trunk line to the septic is only about 18 ft, but this stuff says it works up to 50 ft.

2lb-rootx.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top