Stone + wood cabin

SJ76 said:
Screws and caulk!


Screws and caulk!!
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This shit right here. I've had boats that were more 5200 than boat - no problem!

When the cabin has rotted to a blob on the ground, that 5200 will still be there.

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Peter Gozintite said:
You dont know the difference between these materials. Caulking is generally latex or acrylic. Silicone is oil based, but that henrys shit is different. That shit will stick to asphalt shingles for 20 years. You are just wrong on that. Not reading that wall od text. You keep saying caulking and it is NOT caulking
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My cousin in Chicago builds and fixes up homes. He said the same thing in the rubber washers but that I had a few years to change them out. Said there are other washers you can use that last a long time
 
JuiceTheGator said:
This shit right here. I've had boats that were more 5200 than boat - no problem!

When the cabin has rotted to a blob on the ground, that 5200 will still be there.

View attachment 81545
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Im not sure what type of coating you have on a boat,whether its just primer and then a coat of paint or what.....but in the roofinhg industry,metal roofing has a clear coating on it to keep it from rusting(my mortenson building I just had built is suppose to last 40 yrs)...
Once you pierce that coating,such as scratching it,drilling a hole,punctures or cutting it to put in some type of unit,the cut edge/ scrstches will rust.......
If you were to take a piece of sheet metal with that coating and leave it out in the waether,it wont rust,but scratch it,leave it out in the weather and itll rust at every scratch..........
So when you use any type of caulk,sealant or whatever type you wanna use,it does not want to mend to that coating well enough to call it water tight.........
The building I just had built,I can go right out there and rip it off......It does not stick well......
This why I said in an earlier post,you either need a primer or even a light sanding before applying......But never sand any of that type of metal,or youre asking for trouble.....
So its very tough to keep a metal roof water tight as a it expands and contracts a lot with the weather........They look great and and all,but keeping them water tight is a different story.......
 
SJ76 said:
My cousin in Chicago builds and fixes up homes. He said the same thing in the rubber washers but that I had a few years to change them out. Said there are other washers you can use that last a long time
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I worked 40 years for Local 11 roofers and waterproofers out of Chicago,but we are not located in Chicago,we are located in Sterling which is approximatlet 20 miles from the Mississippi River......
We have app.250 roofers plus we have our own sheet metal division that puts metal roofs on and employs another 100 workers.....
Sterling Commetcial Roofinfing is most likley thr biggest roofing company in local 11 that has over 100 companies that are members......Plus we are the 2nd highest paid union roofers in the U.S.......being NY or Philadelphis being higher paid.....
We are not a fly by night company,we are very well known,and have won awards.......ive been a foreman for them for 22 years with a crew that consists of 7-24 men......Quit hs and started there while my exclass mates were still in school........retired at 58 yrs old with 40 years of service......So I may know a thing or two about roofing........

Ps,Im a flat roofer,not a shingler......
 
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Wood20ks said:
Im not sure what type of coating you have on a boat,whether its just primer and then a coat of paint or what.....but in the roofinhg industry,metal roofing has a clear coating on it to keep it from rusting(my mortenson building I just had built is suppose to last 40 yrs)...
Once you pierce that coating,such as scratching it,drilling a hole,punctures or cutting it to put in some type of unit,the cut edge/ scrstches will rust.......
If you were to take a piece of sheet metal with that coating and leave it out in the waether,it wont rust,but scratch it,leave it out in the weather and itll rust at every scratch..........
So when you use any type of caulk,sealant or whatever type you wanna use,it does not want to mend to that coating well enough to call it water tight.........
The building I just had built,I can go right out there and rip it off......It does not stick well......
This why I said in an earlier post,you either need a primer or even a light sanding before applying......But never sand any of that type of metal,or youre asking for trouble.....
So its very tough to keep a metal roof water tight as a it expands and contracts a lot with the weather........They look great and and all,but keeping them water tight is a different story.......
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Yeah, you must spray all metals with zinc before coating them with any caulk or paint or whatever. You can get a can of zinc spray paint at Home Depot or wherever. Whether it's a mailbox or roofing nails, spray zinc on.

Zinc is the key to everything. I put a zinc anode on the coil in one of my 3.5 ton air conditions in 2000. It's still running and the other 3.5 ton a/c crapped out 10 years ago....because the coil was toast. Every metal thing on a saltwater boat must have a big chunk of zinc attached to it or electrolysis would turn it to shit in just months.
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Wood20ks said:
Im not sure what type of coating you have on a boat,whether its just primer and then a coat of paint or what.....but in the roofinhg industry,metal roofing has a clear coating on it to keep it from rusting(my mortenson building I just had built is suppose to last 40 yrs)...
Once you pierce that coating,such as scratching it,drilling a hole,punctures or cutting it to put in some type of unit,the cut edge/ scrstches will rust.......
If you were to take a piece of sheet metal with that coating and leave it out in the waether,it wont rust,but scratch it,leave it out in the weather and itll rust at every scratch..........
So when you use any type of caulk,sealant or whatever type you wanna use,it does not want to mend to that coating well enough to call it water tight.........
The building I just had built,I can go right out there and rip it off......It does not stick well......
This why I said in an earlier post,you either need a primer or even a light sanding before applying......But never sand any of that type of metal,or youre asking for trouble.....
So its very tough to keep a metal roof water tight as a it expands and contracts a lot with the weather........They look great and and all,but keeping them water tight is a different story.......
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BRO< YOURE WRONG ABOUT THIS! You have this weird thing that if it comes in a tube, it doesnt work. I dont get it. That Henrys clear roofing sealant will stick to asphalt shingles, you dont think it will stick to coated metal. There is no convincing you, and I understand you are in the roofing industry, but I stand behind that shit, and if you havent used it, stop fucking saying it doesnt work. The shit sticks to ANYTHING, for years, and near hardens completely, so it stays flexible and moves with the materials.
 
Peter Gozintite said:
BRO< YOURE WRONG ABOUT THIS! You have this weird thing that if it comes in a tube, it doesnt work. I dont get it. That Henrys clear roofing sealant will stick to asphalt shingles, you dont think it will stick to coated metal. There is no convincing you, and I understand you are in the roofing industry, but I stand behind that shit, and if you havent used it, stop fucking saying it doesnt work. The shit sticks to ANYTHING, for years, and near hardens completely, so it stays flexible and moves with the materials.
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Do you know what rubber roofing is......?
Dp you know what tetm bar is in the rubber roofing industry is......?

If you do,does ehatever type of sealant( is that a better word than caulk?l you use it does not stick to that aluminum bar either.....for uears we have had to go back on figure put why its leaking down the walls aftet a uear or two.......and why does that happen.....?
Becauae the caulk/ sealant/latex/vulkem/ polyeurathane whatever you call it will not stick because you need to use a primer on it first,let dry,then apply........

It does not like to stick to brick walls or metal siding.....this why we use a primer.....

If you dont,you will be able to slide a knifeblade down the side of it.....If you can do that,it qill leak......

And shingles are an adphalt/tar based material,so yes it will stick......as long as the granules are removed......

And I have dealt with architects,general contractors and other trades about stuff like this.......

This is why we result to H.E.R. sustems and inland system if its a huge problem with these metal roofs......
 
Wood20ks said:
Do you know what rubber roofing is......?
Dp you know what tetm bar is in the rubber roofing industry is......?

If you do,does ehatever type of sealant( is that a better word than caulk?l you use it does not stick to that aluminum bar either.....for uears we have had to go back on figure put why its leaking down the walls aftet a uear or two.......and why does that happen.....?
Becauae the caulk/ sealant/latex/vulkem/ polyeurathane whatever you call it will not stick because you need to use a primer on it first,let dry,then apply........

It does not like to stick to brick walls or metal siding.....this why we use a primer.....

If you dont,you will be able to slide a knifeblade down the side of it.....If you can do that,it qill leak......

And shingles are an adphalt/tar based material,so yes it will stick......as long as the granules are removed......

And I have dealt with architects,general contractors and other trades about stuff like this.......

This is why we result to H.E.R. sustems and inland system if its a huge problem with these metal roofs......
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I understand that you can also acid etch those types of materials, be it aluminum or galvanized metal, to promote adhesion.

I will still say, that you havent used THAT material, or you might change your mind a little about what it can do.

It will stick to, and through, the granules on the asphalt shingles down to the surface.

I dont know what rubber roofing has to do with sheet metal.

Thank you for being the only person on the site with more typos than me.
 
Peter Gozintite said:
I understand that you can also acid etch those types of materials, be it aluminum or galvanized metal, to promote adhesion.

I will still say, that you havent used THAT material, or you might change your mind a little about what it can do.

It will stick to, and through, the granules on the asphalt shingles down to the surface.

I dont know what rubber roofing has to do with sheet metal.

Thank you for being the only person on the site with more typos than me.
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Lol

Rubber roofing uses metal edging and termbar to stop where the warranty ends......When you up the side of a concrete wall,your rubber has to stop somewheres.....you use an aluminum termbar it as a securement......you put watercutoff under the rubber,take the termbar and hammerdrill it into the wall,then you take another type of polyeurayhane caulk and run it along the termbar to seal it frrom rain or snow running behind it.......but you first take the manufacturers primer and neatly brush it on,wait till dry and apply your sealant,and neat as possible finger troweled in.........

As far as Henry is concerned,not sure,there was a Henry-Ruf-Tac that was used years ago......not sure if this is the same company or not.....

But our company carried numerous types of sealant,but the standard they use anymore is Sanborn or vulkem,but mostly Sanborn......
 
Wood20ks said:
Lol

Rubber roofing uses metal edging and termbar to stop where the warranty ends......When you up the side of a concrete wall,your rubber has to stop somewheres.....you use an aluminum termbar it as a securement......you put watercutoff under the rubber,take the termbar and hammerdrill it into the wall,then you take another type of polyeurayhane caulk and run it along the termbar to seal it frrom rain or snow running behind it.......but you first take the manufacturers primer and neatly brush it on,wait till dry and apply your sealant,and neat as possible finger troweled in.........

As far as Henry is concerned,not sure,there was a Henry-Ruf-Tac that was used years ago......not sure if this is the same company or not.....

But our company carried numerous types of sealant,but the standard they use anymore is Sanborn or vulkem,but mostly Sanborn......
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Why are we talking about rubber roofing?
 
Peter Gozintite said:
I understand that you can also acid etch those types of materials, be it aluminum or galvanized metal, to promote adhesion.

I will still say, that you havent used THAT material, or you might change your mind a little about what it can do.

It will stick to, and through, the granules on the asphalt shingles down to the surface.

I dont know what rubber roofing has to do with sheet metal.

Thank you for being the only person on the site with more typos than me.
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Pssst I’m king of typos and you guys are amateurs.
 
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