Dealerships are the fucking worst!

fordman84 said:
Probably not but when you have that all apart to get to the steering components and they are worn out, might as well replace em. Putting broken/worn parts back on is a no no.
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Don't encourage him. He works at Napa and thinks it makes him a mechanic.
 
Peter Gozintite said:
Will Forte Fml GIF by The Lonely Island
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How much labor $ are they talking?

How much for parts?
 
steelerssb said:
My mom gets free state inspections from a dealership because she bought there.

I've actually noticed dealers are more forthcoming and don't try sneaking in anything other than what you specifically requested.
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LOL knew this was coming.

Really though that always kinda surprised me because everyone says the dealerships are scams. But I've only really ever gone to two places.
 
Peter...all you have is a leak in your power steering.

Just add fluid and you'll save thousands of dollars.....
 
Peter Gozintite said:
It has never leaked a drop of anything. Go fuck off Napa know nothing.
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Actually...Fog might be onto something. You said your wife took it in for an oil change and driving back, the steering was all fucky. The way its described, it sounds like a power steering issue. I wouldn't put it past the dealership to have fucked with the power steering just to get you back in. So it could just be a simple fix and you unnecessarily replaced a good chunk of the front suspension.

But with the miles you put on it and the conditions you're driving under (you said you're running it up places in Mormonfuck, Utah, it's likely time for components to be replaced anyway. They are most certainly worn to a degree. You could probably get some more mileage out of it, but if you intend to keep it, its a good investment. BTW, at that high mileage and if you intend to keep it going, it would be a great time (truthfully a little past time), to get some new tranny fluid. If you've had no issues with the tranny, some new fluid will keep that thing going basically forever. You should also look into engine service with the plugs, pulleys, coils, etc. If you haven't replaced the lot already, you're hitting the mileage point where you could start seeing some nagging engine issues.

Also, if you're good with tools, you should consider seeing if you can do the maintenance yourself. Youtube actually has some really good vids for basically any kind of replacement. You'll be surprised at how much you can actually do yourself with just a decent tool set.
 
Fog said:
True...but does a rack replace require you to remove the lower and upper control arms?

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Not sure, if it is 4x4 it might. Or he might have just looked under and saw it was worn out and the reason the steering wore out.
 
fordman84 said:
Not sure, if it is 4x4 it might. Or he might have just looked under and saw it was worn out and the reason the steering wore out.
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The control arm was binding on one side, and the rack had grooves in the gears. He sent me pictures. Then he said, while we are in here, these shocks and struts should probably be done, and I said do it all.
 
Took an older Expedition we were considering buying to the dealership for an inspection. Replace the front and rear axle seals, replace s-belt. $700

Took it to an small shop mechanic. Puts it up on the lift, shows me there are no leaks in axle seals. Agrees s-belt should be replaced.

Estimates $180. Charges $140.
 
Peter Gozintite said:
Some of you guys must think I'm stupid.
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They don't know what a "rack and pinion" is to begin with! Couple teeth probably broke off the "rack" or the "pinion" and is causing it to hang up on the broken tooth as it passes it. That it happens when you turn left makes me suspect the missing tooth is on the rack on the side the pinion travels when turning left.

Probably broke the tooth while turning left and hit a pothole or curb too hard.

It is a pain to change them...and if you have to remove tie-rod ends you may want to give them a good look to see if they need replacing. Check the idler arm too for movement. Just grab the steering parts after you lift the vehicle and have on jack stands and see if you can move the steering components to see if any slop in the joints and tie rod ends. If any show slop or movement you probably should replace them after 140k miles.
 
Peter Gozintite said:
The control arm was binding on one side, and the rack had grooves in the gears. He sent me pictures. Then he said, while we are in here, these shocks and struts should probably be done, and I said do it all.
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There you go! Boom! Easy Peasy!

You do go work...and fast!

Hahaha
 
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