Lawn Care Advice Thread

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Tenacity does wonders on crabgrass, but there are lots of alternatives that are cheaper. For TTTF and Rye, you can use it both spring and fall and not go over the yearly app rate, even if you do two apps each season two weeks apart (I always do for spot weed treatment). I've used it to help knock down Poa Annua and take on some other stubborn issues while also buying me time if I overseed at the same time.

Sounds like you have a larger yard so I don't know how far it will go for you, but I'm sitting on around 8k sq/ft of yard and a bottle of it has lasted me years with as little as I use. I don't blanket spray it unless it's as a pre emergent and will only put down one blanket app and spot spray any issues in areas not newly seeded two weeks later.

Does take awhile for the white areas on weeds and where good grass goes lighter green with mild damage to come back so I don't use it every season/year.

If you didn't have any issues with that Black Beauty Ultra and didn't have anything down, I either had a batch with issues or the seed came from something else.

I'm also around 8k sq.ft. I've never used tenacity, but as mentioned, I plan to get some and apply it before reseeding again next fall. I'll do some more research to see whether I should use it for pre in the spring, versus other options, depending on budget.

Poa annua is a small issue for me next to the street and may use tenacity or another pre there next fall instead of trying to reseed those areas. Both PA and crabgrass need years of pre-emergent apps to prevent all of the dormant seeds from sprouting, but that can also interfere with reseeding projects.

I'm planning on reseeding at least another fall or two before trying to tackle the poa annua so I've got a decent stand of grass from the neglected yard previously.

It's also going to take some time getting the soil healthy with compacted clay, but I hope to eventually get to an all organic program.
 
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As far as weeds go/went, there are/were several, but I've let them go. Didn't want to impact the grass growth by trying to combat weeds this fall. I'll try to work on them during the spring after the grass has a sufficient root system to survive the summer.
 
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I'm also around 8k sq.ft. I've never used tenacity, but as mentioned, I plan to get some and apply it before reseeding again next fall. I'll do some more research to see whether I should use it for pre in the spring, versus other options, depending on budget.

Poa annua is a small issue for me next to the street and may use tenacity or another pre there next fall instead of trying to reseed those areas. Both PA and crabgrass need years of pre-emergent apps to prevent all of the dormant seeds from sprouting, but that can also interfere with reseeding projects.

I'm planning on reseeding at least another fall or two before trying to tackle the poa annua so I've got a decent stand of grass from the neglected yard previously.

It's also going to take some time getting the soil healthy with compacted clay, but I hope to eventually get to an all organic program.
I only use tenacity as a pre when overseeding/seeding. It doesn't last long enough to use for partial season weed control. I don't tend to use the others though as my strategy is to have as thick of a lawn as I can to crowd out the weeds in the first place and just chase the few that get in here and there.

I've had a clover problem that goes away for a year or so and sooner or later comes back up, the odd crabgrass that comes in from both of my neighbors, and some poa that isn't widespread, but is a really bitch to stop. Tenacity doesn't kill Poa, but it makes it really sick for a while. I've used it to keep it from going to seed heads and make it sick enough to thin out, and overseed the area. It's less of a problem now than it was a year ago when I started working on it.

I'm not fully organic, but I follow a lot of it. I do use more milorganite for nitrogen than any harsher base, I don't use weed n feed or many blanket apps outside of tenacity with large seed areas for initial weed control, and I only spot treat weeds. I do use humates to help with soil and a liquid micronutrient supplement a couple of times a year. I like using starter fert for P and K to the soil instead of a store bought 10-10-10 as starter ferts are usually less harsh. I did use mostly milo for a few years and found the roots suffering a bit from not getting enough P and K down. Adding in a couple of treatments (spring/fall) and milo the rest of the time has worked out much better.

Keep us up to date on your project. I'm always interested in hearing others results and experiences. Especially since we are using the same seed mix in this case.
 
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It will be at least another year before I think of going completely organic, as the yard was neglected for so many years, it needs synthetic to get a jump start, along with a few years of overseeding to take care of thinning grass.

I really like the Jonathan Green products thus far and their mindset of feeding not only the lawn, but also the soil makes a lot of sense. I've used the Mag-i-cal plus a couple apps this year and one of Love your Soil. Plan to add the rest of the LYS bag in the spring/summer.

From my pictures you can tell I'm not ever going to have a baseball diamond/golf course fairway, but a thicker lawn that my kids can enjoy playing on is my goal.
 

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Don't let @SlinkyRedfoot whack off on the grass......that's the best I got.
 
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Don't let @SlinkyRedfoot whack off on the grass......that's the best I got.
Bullshit, motherfucker.

My nut is like the proverbial manna from heaven. Dilute to 1 to 1000, mist your grass and you‘ll have a rainforest tomorrow.
 
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I have a confession to make. I once killed my entire yard of freshly sodded grass...twice!!!!

Angry Rob Lowe GIF by britbox




OVER FERTILIZED THAT BITCH!!!


The first time was because I fucking didn't think it would do anything...looked like my kids had spilled some of their "poprocks" candy on the grass. I was like Pfffft! I'll crank that bitch up!


Wrong move. Killed the fuck out of it. So I called the sod company and bitched about it. They came re-sod the entire yard...about 1 acre. Everything was cool. Never wanted to weed and feed again. Skipped about 3 years. Grass was beautiful. Hey Tiger you Weed and Feed this year? May want to do that.

Sounded like a good idea again....sadly I did the exact same thing and when it started dying again I knew....Oh I fucking knew it!

scared youtube GIF by Hyper RPG



Once it died...again....I called another sod company and had it done....again....on my dime.


I felt pretty fucking embarrassed about that for a while....

Hide Reaction GIF by flor
 
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I have a confession to make. I once killed my entire yard of freshly sodded grass...twice!!!!

Angry Rob Lowe GIF by britbox




OVER FERTILIZED THAT BITCH!!!


The first time was because I fucking didn't think it would do anything...looked like my kids had spilled some of their "poprocks" candy on the grass. I was like Pfffft! I'll crank that bitch up!


Wrong move. Killed the fuck out of it. So I called the sod company and bitched about it. They came re-sod the entire yard...about 1 acre. Everything was cool. Never wanted to weed and feed again. Skipped about 3 years. Grass was beautiful. Hey Tiger you Weed and Feed this year? May want to do that.

Sounded like a good idea again....sadly I did the exact same thing and when it started dying again I knew....Oh I fucking knew it!

scared youtube GIF by Hyper RPG



Once it died...again....I called another sod company and had it done....again....on my dime.


I felt pretty fucking embarrassed about that for a while....

Hide Reaction GIF by flor

Read the spreader settings on the bag and calibrate your spreader is all I can say.

The most popular spreader is Scott's and many fertilizer brands provide settings for Scott's spreaders and maybe a couple more. However, it's a better practice to "calibrate" your spreader to the correct rate by putting a certain amount in (1-2 pounds) and walking your normal pace over a tarp set up for 100 or so sq.ft. That would let you know the sq.ft. you cover with a certain poundage of fertilizer with your spreader. While this isn't that complicated, the vast majority will not do it and either don't but down enough (okay) or too much which could burn your grass (bad).

Until you've had some practice spreading, it's better to put half the fertilizer you need for your sq.ft. and make one pass (East/West), then the other half in a second pass (North/South). This can help even out the spread so you don't get streaks in your lawn.



While it's not difficult, there is a learning curve in taking care of your own lawn versus hiring someone else. It's a hobby that you enjoy, but can make mistakes (similar to golf). Some enjoy it, but I'm sure most would prefer mowing down the weeds and having a few more beers.

I'm certainly a novice, but it is something I enjoy doing and learning about.
 
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If you are going to just throw down all willy nilly use Milorganite at least. It doesn't have salts so there really is no such thing as damaging the lawn with too much. You simply waste money for using more than the soil/lawn can use.

Even the iron content of it is too small to overdose the lawn on.
 

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been watering the shit out of my lawn and seeing some good results...but I need more...I think I might put more seed down and keep the process going.

Still no frost here yet, so all good on that front.

but I want this baby to be THICK next season.
 
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been watering the shit out of my lawn and seeing some good results...but I need more...I think I might put more seed down and keep the process going.

Still no frost here yet, so all good on that front.

but I want this baby to be THICK next season.

Be careful to not add too much, and stick with the rates listed on the bag. It'll look good at first, but too many plants will compete for resources, eventually choking each other out. It will thicken up as it matures next spring and consistent mowing will also help it start to spread.
 

ill

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Be careful to not add too much, and stick with the rates listed on the bag. It'll look good at first, but too many plants will compete for resources, eventually choking each other out. It will thicken up as it matures next spring and consistent mowing will also help it start to spread.
Noted. Thank you.

I did some light raking around the edges and threw down some more seed because I don't see it looking great there right now.

Also, should I put down some limestone before the winter? Winterizer?
 
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Noted. Thank you.

I did some light raking around the edges and threw down some more seed because I don't see it looking great there right now.

Also, should I put down some limestone before the winter? Winterizer?

It's fine to go back and add a little more seed in spots that didn't germinate well, but some people will try putting down 2-3 times the recommended rate and they'll blame the seed when the plants die off. More is not always better.

Lime can be useful to help "unlock" nutrients in your soil so the roots can take them up, but only if you need to raise the ph. A soil test is recommended through your local extension and it'll tell you what your soil is lacking and how much you need to add. If you have clay soil and haven't put lime down in years, then it is likely your ph is low and could use some lime. But like above, more isn't necessarily better, as you want a ph around 6.2-7 for cool season grasses. Below 5.5 and your grass will struggle and weeds flourish. Go too alkaline and you'll get similar results. If you do put down lime, the freezing and refreezing ground throughout winter will help it get into the soil and break down.

You should definitely fertilize in the fall and many brands sell "winterizer" . Even after frost comes and top growth slows, the ground is still warm allowing roots, especially fall seeded grass, to store energy and flourish in spring. I put down Jonathan Green Winter survival last week and plan to put down another round after thanksgiving. It is 10-0-20, while other brands have a lot higher N and lower K on their winterizer, but with me doing a couple apps, I didn't want to put down too much N when the blade growth will be slowing and needs to concentrate on root development.


While I've been Scott's before, I really started reading up on Jonathan Green's website and a lot of it makes great sense and the reason I've been giving their products a try this year where I've been pleased so far. I've used the Black Beauty Ultra seed, Mag-i-cal plus, Love Your Soil, and the Winter Survival. I do have some Scott's in the shed I plan to use up or pass along to someone next year if I stuck with JG products.
 
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ill

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My soil is definitely acidic. Did a little test tube test in it, came back acidic, so limestone would be smart.

And I can see what you mean about overcrowding with the seed.

I feel like I need to take the whole thing. The dead crabgrass is blocking too much but I don't want to pull up any of the new grass or seed
 
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