Lawn Care Advice Thread

[Cobrabit]

I was thinking about over seeding in the back because lawn is thin there, but then can't use herbicide for a couple of months, right?

That's correct. But if you kill the weeds....the grass will be healthier and may fill in some small areas.

You can then seed over any bare areas as needed after 4 weeks.

Yep, you can overseed in the spring, but shouldn't use preemergent (I'm assuming cool season grasses here). You can use post emergent (weed and feed) after you've mowed the new seedlings at least 3 times at their preferred height. That means it you're planting tall fescue, you'll mow around 2.5-3 inches and a couple more weeks of mowing at that height before using a post emergent.

Keep in mind that seeding cool season grasses (fescue, rye, bluegrass) in the spring can help fill in thin spots now, but most of those seedlings will not survive the summer. They just won't be mature enough to develop an energy reserve and will likely die out. Fall seeding is ideal, as it allows more time for them to mature before summer stress.

However, seeding in the spring can help keep some weeds developing, but think of it as a temporary fix and plan to seed in the fall.

 

[Bayou Tiger]

Yep, you can overseed in the spring, but shouldn't use preemergent (I'm assuming cool season grasses here). You can use post emergent (weed and feed) after you've mowed the new seedlings at least 3 times at their preferred height. That means it you're planting tall fescue, you'll mow around 2.5-3 inches and a couple more weeks of mowing at that height before using a post emergent.

Keep in mind that seeding cool season grasses (fescue, rye, bluegrass) in the spring can help fill in thin spots now, but most of those seedlings will not survive the summer. They just won't be mature enough to develop an energy reserve and will likely die out. Fall seeding is ideal, as it allows more time for them to mature before summer stress.

However, seeding in the spring can help keep some weeds developing, but think of it as a temporary fix and plan to seed in the fall.

I have centipede grass. At the end of the season I usually stop cutting it and let it throw up the seed stalks....looks like chicken feet. It doesn't look very good but I usually wait right towards the end of the growing season...which here in Louisiana is probably late October/early November! Then after the first frost I cut the grass one last time and this is how I over seed....naturally!

I don't know if this is possible with other grass types.

 

[Cobrabit]

I have centipede grass. At the end of the season I usually stop cutting it and let it throw up the seed stalks....looks like chicken feet. It doesn't look very good but I usually wait right towards the end of the growing season...which here in Louisiana is probably late October/early November! Then after the first frost I cut the grass one last time and this is how I over seed....naturally!

I don't know if this is possible with other grass types.

Your last sentence is what the deciding factor will be. You're in the southern growing area where centipede, bermuda, st. Augustine, zoysia, etc are prevalent and northern grasses like fescue, rye, and bluegrass would struggle. I'm in the transition zone, so either type can grow, but not necessarily flourish, especially in a lot of clay soil that is common here.

Therefore, any timeframes to apply herbicides or plant seeds would be greatly dependent on region.

The best advice I could provide is to contact your local extension about doing a soil test and inquire with local suppliers about the best seed that would perform well in your area. Don't rely only on the advice of Scott's/Pennington/etc, as they want to maximize their reach/profit, while a local supplier may help you with what would grow best in your area.

 

[Bayou Tiger]

Your last sentence is what the deciding factor will be. You're in the southern growing area where centipede, bermuda, st. Augustine, zoysia, etc are prevalent and northern grasses like fescue, rye, and bluegrass would struggle. I'm in the transition zone, so either type can grow, but not necessarily flourish, especially in a lot of clay soil that is common here.

Therefore, any timeframes to apply herbicides or plant seeds would be greatly dependent on region.

The best advice I could provide is to contact your local extension about doing a soil test and inquire with local suppliers about the best seed that would perform well in your area. Don't rely only on the advice of Scott's/Pennington/etc, as they want to maximize their reach/profit, while a local supplier may help you with what would grow best in your area.

My yard man is a licensed horticulturist that graduated from LSU. I actually just pay him to do what's needed. haha

I had my yard sodded with centipede years ago....like over 20 years ago. My lawn is well established.

But skip one year of weed and feeding it and it will take 2 to 3 years to get it back in shape. I know this as I've had to do it a couple times. Can't neglect the maintenance required and expect the lawn not to suffer.

What pisses me off is the neighbors don't maintain their lawns. Clover farming looking MF'ers!

 

[MTVike]

That's correct. But if you kill the weeds....the grass will be healthier and may fill in some small areas.

You can then seed over any bare areas as needed after 4 weeks.

I think it's been a losing battle, with two dogs in the backyard...

 

[MTVike]

Yep, you can overseed in the spring, but shouldn't use preemergent (I'm assuming cool season grasses here). You can use post emergent (weed and feed) after you've mowed the new seedlings at least 3 times at their preferred height. That means it you're planting tall fescue, you'll mow around 2.5-3 inches and a couple more weeks of mowing at that height before using a post emergent.

Keep in mind that seeding cool season grasses (fescue, rye, bluegrass) in the spring can help fill in thin spots now, but most of those seedlings will not survive the summer. They just won't be mature enough to develop an energy reserve and will likely die out. Fall seeding is ideal, as it allows more time for them to mature before summer stress.

However, seeding in the spring can help keep some weeds developing, but think of it as a temporary fix and plan to seed in the fall.

Damn, I thought you were a teacher, not a greenskeeper!

 

[Cobrabit]

My yard man is a licensed horticulturist that graduated from LSU. I actually just pay him to do what's needed. haha

I had my yard sodded with centipede years ago....like over 20 years ago. My lawn is well established.

But skip one year of weed and feeding it and it will take 2 to 3 years to get it back in shape. I know this as I've had to do it a couple times. Can't neglect the maintenance required and expect the lawn not to suffer.

What pisses me off is the neighbors don't maintain their lawns. Clover farming looking MF'ers!

Haha, I completely understand having issues with neighbors, as weeds don't care about property lines.

Honestly, having a nice lawn takes time and money. whether you sacrifice money to save time of doing it yourself, or save a little money, but spend the time. Regardless, it's a battle to keep weeds away and isn't worth the fight for most. Then again, it can be a project to take pride in and distract from other worries.

Definitely a first world "problem" that doesn't rank high on the list of survival, but another project to kill time (and money one way or the other).

 

[Cobrabit]

Damn, I thought you were a teacher, not a greenskeeper!

 

[BadMotoWeazal]

I used to spend a fortune on weed preventer & fertilizer. Scotts, StaGreen, etc, that stuff never worked. I was always left with a bunch of early spring weeds & the the dandelions & clover would hit mid to late season. I got a new neighbor down the street that is in the lawn care business. He quoted me $36.00 a month a few years ago & it was the best decision I have made for my yard. He does it all, pre-emergent, fertilizer, aerates & insecticide.

I had a mole issue a few years ago & he took care of that too.

 

[Parka]

Hello @Cobrabit !

Check out my lawn. This pic is about 22 years ago in Akron, Ohio. It just surprises the heck outta me that you can make beer but you can't grow grass for crap! Good luck on the grass though, I mean that sincerely.

 

[Cobrabit]

Hello @Cobrabit !

Check out my lawn. This pic is about 22 years ago in Akron, Ohio. It just surprises the heck outta me that you can make beer but you can't grow grass for crap! Good luck on the grass though, I mean that sincerely.

View attachment 23877View attachment 23877

.

Knew my lawn would be a process after years of neglect from the previous owners and working on the hardscape the first few years we owned the house. Being in the transition zone, compacted clay soil, and over a dozen oak trees doesn't help, but definitely looking forward to seeing how last year's efforts turn out in the next several weeks with spring.

 

[wildturkey]

What's something good and relatively cheap that kills grubs? I've seen some stuff that kills everything, but I'd rather not kill some of the useful insects.

 

[Sugarshell]

Hello @Cobrabit !

Check out my lawn. This pic is about 22 years ago in Akron, Ohio. It just surprises the heck outta me that you can make beer but you can't grow grass for crap! Good luck on the grass though, I mean that sincerely.

View attachment 23877View attachment 23877

Wow, you must have lived in the fancy part of town!

 

[ill]

Cut back my knockdown roses to about 3 ft from the ground.

Going to run by Ace and get some crabgrass stuff before going to meet friends for dinner

 

[Cobrabit]

What's something good and relatively cheap that kills grubs? I've seen some stuff that kills everything, but I'd rather not kill some of the useful ins

Since its a lawn thread, anyone know of some cheap and effective grub killer? I know I can google it but I'm lazy. I've noticed a skunk is coming around digging up certain spots looking for grubs (I guess, or whatever the hell bugs they eat). Figure if I kill his food source, he'll leave.

I've only used Scott's grub ex, so not sure how it compares in price/effectiveness to others, but you can always find it in stores.

Skunks love them some grubs. I was told that they can smell them and have had those stinky bastids tear up the lawn at my old place many times. I agree with @Cobrabit, Scott's Grub X has worked for me in the past, but it works much better if you're proactive rather than trying to catch up later in the season.

 

[wildturkey]

Oh yeah, I forgot I asked last Fall. I decided to wait until Spring and forgot all about it.

 

[Parka]

Wow, you must have lived in the fancy part of town!

Hi Shell! Fancy seeing you here! I'm glad you're here.

 

[outofyourmind]

Put down pre-emergent every 3 months and most of your weed problems will go away.

I started doing this a year ago and have zero weeds coming up now, when usually the yard is covered with weeds.
And sure, some regular weeds will come up, but I'll just spray those with post-emergent.

 

[Wild Turkey]

I used to spend a fortune on weed preventer & fertilizer. Scotts, StaGreen, etc, that stuff never worked. I was always left with a bunch of early spring weeds & the the dandelions & clover would hit mid to late season. I got a new neighbor down the street that is in the lawn care business. He quoted me $36.00 a month a few years ago & it was the best decision I have made for my yard. He does it all, pre-emergent, fertilizer, aerates & insecticide.

I had a mole issue a few years ago & he took care of that too.

That's a steal.

 

[Cobrabit]

Put down pre-emergent every 3 months and most of your weed problems will go away.

I started doing this a year ago and have zero weeds coming up now, when usually the yard is covered with weeds.
And sure, some regular weeds will come up, but I'll just spray those with post-emergent.

I may put down a second round of pre-emergent mid May when I do the next fertilizer app, but that would be it for this year, since I plan to over seed again around Labor Day.